Recipe: Australian Food by Bill Granger

In the 20 years since BILL GRANGER published his first book of recipes, Sydney Food, the world has fallen in love with the joyfully casual Australian way of eating. As a self-taught cook, straight out of art school, Bill furnished his first street-corner eatery in minimalist style, serving a small but perfectly formed menu of domestic dishes around a central communal table. He captured the hearts of Sydneysiders and visitors alike, while setting an exciting new standard for cafe dining.

Nowadays, from Sydney to Tokyo, and London to Seoul, queues form to enjoy ricotta hotcakes fluffy scrambled eggs, lively salads and punchy curries. It is a bright picture of Australian food that has travelled across the globe, packed with fresh flavours and local produce, healthy but never preachy, whose main ingredient seems to be sunshine itself. The plates at any of Bill's restaurants are more sophisticated today, reflecting decades of global experience and culinary creativity - but the warmth of atmosphere and joy of eating remain the same.

In this extract from Bill’s new book Australian Food, he shares a recipe for delicious Kimchi, spinach and ricotta dumplings.

 Kimchi, spinach & ricotta dumplings

Makes: 44

 I’ve always adored the sour–sweet tang of pickles and sauerkraut, long before we all discovered their links to great gut health. Even as a child, I loved little pickled onions from a jar (although I’m not entirely sure of their implications for gut health). In more recent times, Australia has discovered the joy of kimchi. I was so excited when I got the opportunity to open a restaurant in Korea. I flew out there one January, into the freezing cold, and ate bags of hot dumplings filled with new flavours and textures. This recipe is based on Korean kimchi mandu, but using the Western favourite, ricotta. It is a strange-sounding combination that really works. This recipe makes a good big batch of dumplings – you can freeze them, filled but uncooked, for up to 1 month.

 Dashi

 70g kombu
30g bonito flakes

Dumplings

 2 large bunches spinach, stalks trimmed
250g kimchi, drained, chopped
2 spring onions, chopped
60g fresh ricotta, gently crumbled
44 wonton wrappers
1 egg, lightly beaten
Chilli oil, to serve

For the dashi, combine the kombu and 1.25 litres water in a saucepan. Simmer, partially covered, over low heat for 20 minutes, then add the bonito flakes and simmer for a further 5 minutes. Leave to cool, then strain.

To make the dumplings, put the spinach in a large heatproof bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave for 30 seconds, then drain and plunge into iced water. Leave for 30 seconds, then drain and squeeze out all the water. Weigh out 80g of the spinach. Chop and separate it so it doesn’t clump.

Gently mix the spinach with the kimchi, spring onions and ricotta, without breaking up the ricotta too much.

Working with a few at a time, lay the wonton wrappers on a work surface and brush a little beaten egg around the edges. Place 1 heaped teaspoon of filling in the centre of each. Fold in half, removing any air pockets, and seal the edges by pinching together with your fingers.

Reheat the dashi in a pan and poach the dumplings in batches for 2 minutes. Lift out with a slotted spoon. Serve with a spoonful of dashi and a little chilli oil.

Images and text from Australian Food by Bill Granger, photography by Mikkel Vang. Murdoch Books RRP $49.99.